Project type XXI scale 1/96

[MFR1964]

Some more work on the torpedoshutters and retractingmechanism for the dive-planes


Inserted the pre-made innerparts on the central hinge rod.



Placed some styrene strips, used the holes in the innerparts to get a good bonding with the glue.


The aim will be this much movement, it should be about 8mm max.


Gave the shutters some paint because when spraying the boat i can't reach at certain places in the bowpart.


Pretty much the same story at the bowpart


Made the brackets which will both hold the mechanism for the shutters and dive-planes.


Placing the mechanism which will control the retracting action, this will be the position when the bow-planes are retracted.


Extending the bow-planes will happen in this position.


Made some slits in the tubes to receive the rods of the upper part containing the retract mechanism.


Made a drill- jigg to dril the holes through the shafts of the upper mechanism each time the same way.


Placed the stainless rods, these will slide in the previous made slits.

For now i have to make a make-shift steering contraption and start testing if everything will work as intended, to be continued.

Manfred.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Maybe your beloved president can do something for you, after all he made the mexican gulf american

Manfred

GGrrrrr!.....

[MFR1964]

Maybe your beloved president can do something for you, after all he made the mexican gulf american

Manfred

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

That is, if al those things will work in the future, nothing better as to spoil your day

Where the hell is the 'ban' button on this damned thing???..... ****! I can't find it!!!! Foiled again!!!!!!!

Those irritating European's!!!!! There should be a law.

[MFR1964]

That is, if al those things will work in the future, nothing better as to spoil your day

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Since i have chosen for retracteble divingplanes i had to make a different way for using the magnets holding the deck.


First i made a lip for holding the magnet at the stern, this one is horizontal orientated


The magnet at the stern on the upperdeck, i use different size of magnets, using too big of a magnet will give trouble taking the deck off.


The front magnet is placed vertical at the bow.


Same story for the magnet at the bow of the upperdeck, in the background you can see the mechanism for retracting the diveplanes.


Upperdeck closed.


Upperdeck removed from the boat, placing the magnets vertical at the bow allows me to lift that part first, the horizontal magnet follows without force


This was a bummer, the bowpart was not propely aligned, had to cut it free and re-glued it again.


While the bowpart was curing i made this.


Once put together it looks likes this.


Closed position


Open position


Prior to cutting open the torpedo shutters, yes, the mechanism is build to control the shutters.


All shutters cutted open in the rough.


First i want to get this working, later on i will make this tidy.


This is the point where i stand now, a central hindge pin on which the shutters will pivot, first have to build some brackets to keep this contraption at it's place.

Manfred.

H-O-L-Y C-R-A-P!!!!!

Manfred!!... you're out of your frig'n mind!!!!

Working shutter doors. Practical retracting bow planes. completely hidden rudder and stern plane linkage horns. Well... that's it. I quit. I'm taking my ball and going home.

Wow! The degree of my hatred for your incredible accomplishments cannot be measured. "GRrrrrr!"

[MFR1964]

Since i have chosen for retracteble divingplanes i had to make a different way for using the magnets holding the deck.


First i made a lip for holding the magnet at the stern, this one is horizontal orientated


The magnet at the stern on the upperdeck, i use different size of magnets, using too big of a magnet will give trouble taking the deck off.


The front magnet is placed vertical at the bow.


Same story for the magnet at the bow of the upperdeck, in the background you can see the mechanism for retracting the diveplanes.


Upperdeck closed.


Upperdeck removed from the boat, placing the magnets vertical at the bow allows me to lift that part first, the horizontal magnet follows without force


This was a bummer, the bowpart was not propely aligned, had to cut it free and re-glued it again.


While the bowpart was curing i made this.


Once put together it looks likes this.


Closed position


Open position


Prior to cutting open the torpedo shutters, yes, the mechanism is build to control the shutters.


All shutters cutted open in the rough.


First i want to get this working, later on i will make this tidy.


This is the point where i stand now, a central hindge pin on which the shutters will pivot, first have to build some brackets to keep this contraption at it's place.

Manfred.

[MFR1964]

Got to feed your brain David

Manfred

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

The Flu got me, it took some weeks to recover, but still building ahead, first the things i did untill the Flu hitted me.



Since i want to both steer and retract the forward divingplanes i altered the front bulkhead to give me room for three servo's


Placed the new servo's and made some magnetic connectors


A fit to see if everything will fit inside the boat.


Retracting the dive planes creates a problem, it must be possible to put the upper half on while making the connection for the retracting mechanism, glued the frontpart down


After glueing the front part i took the jewelers saw and cutted it free.


This is the result, you can lift the upperpart in the middle of the boat, at that moment the Flu hit me, next chapter was started after the Flu


Made this contraption for holding both scopes and the schnorkeltube.


The stainless tube of the schnorkel will slide over the bras tube, making the connection to snort.


The front tube has a inlet to suck up the air while bringing the boat up


The contraption will fit underneath the conningtower.



Complete conningtower with all the gizmo's placed, even found some scale mesh to clad the FUMO radar, for now i'm working on the magnetic connection of the upper hull part, to be continued

Manfred.

Outstanding!

[MFR1964]

The Flu got me, it took some weeks to recover, but still building ahead, first the things i did untill the Flu hitted me.



Since i want to both steer and retract the forward divingplanes i altered the front bulkhead to give me room for three servo's


Placed the new servo's and made some magnetic connectors


A fit to see if everything will fit inside the boat.


Retracting the dive planes creates a problem, it must be possible to put the upper half on while making the connection for the retracting mechanism, glued the frontpart down


After glueing the front part i took the jewelers saw and cutted it free.


This is the result, you can lift the upperpart in the middle of the boat, at that moment the Flu hit me, next chapter was started after the Flu


Made this contraption for holding both scopes and the schnorkeltube.


The stainless tube of the schnorkel will slide over the bras tube, making the connection to snort.


The front tube has a inlet to suck up the air while bringing the boat up


The contraption will fit underneath the conningtower.



Complete conningtower with all the gizmo's placed, even found some scale mesh to clad the FUMO radar, for now i'm working on the magnetic connection of the upper hull part, to be continued

Manfred.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

How about an external connection? I remember seeing a WTC in one of the threads here showing external power cables connected to studs coming out of each endcap

An option, but not on this little model: the annular space between WTC and hull is so tight as to make that effort a waste of time.

David

[redboat219]

How about an external connection? I remember seeing a WTC in one of the threads here showing external power cables connected to studs coming out the sides of the ballast tank bulkheads.

https://forum.rc-sub.com/forum/general-topics/171860-subtech-albacore-pdf-instructions?p=172770#post172770

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

David,
Will leave the safetyfloat out since i go for snort, hopefully it will compensate the extra conduit, if not, then the boat is loaded to the rim for going on warpatrol.

Manfred

As the length of the tank -- hence, the length of the conduit -- is short, and I'm assuming its dimeter will be no greater than 3/8", then it'll be an equal trade-off of volume between the removed safety float-valve and installed conduit. You're Golden!

[MFR1964]

David,
Will leave the safetyfloat out since i go for snort, hopefully it will compensate the extra conduit, if not, then the boat is loaded to the rim for going on warpatrol.

Manfred

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Sorry David, i did it again, ripping apart a good functional SD, but done with a reason,


Took the complete SD down, i wanted to make a extra conduit inside, like to run signal and power wires separate.





Ran into a problem with the old configuration of the SD, the receiver was too big combined with the larger servo's, i do miss the Sombra SL8 receivers, should have bought more in the past, unless somebody has them lying around with no use, i would gladly take them over.
Luckely i have a spare transmittor/receiver from WyFly, had to take off the housing of the receiver to make it work, also made the choice to run the boat snort instead of SAS, the room inside the tower is eaten up by the scopes and snorkel.


A test to see if everything will fit inside the SD, placed the magnetic couplers for connecting the rudder/diveplanes.


First made the index pin, this way you always can place the SD the same way.


By building up the engine part and placing the index pin i could mate both the steering of the rudder and diveplanes.

For now i have to rebuild the entire SD for my needs, to be continued.

Manfred.

No sweat, Manfred -- I'm very attentive to follow your good works. However, running a second conduit through the ballast tank will diminish its floodable volume to the point where you will find the boats surfaced waterline to be way too high. Rotsa Ruck!