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Ah, i can see it now, used the bowplanes mistakely for the stern, since they are pressfitted i can change them to the way it's suppost to be, thanks for the tip guys
Manfred, you are presenting a level of work that is always on the level of a fine watchmaker. Here's some input into it's operation as I drove the one Dave built. I was skeptical as to how it was going to operate, but it operates surprisingly well for such a small package, and the external forces on the planing surfaces are not that great, so you can get away with a lot.
There is not that much room to get a gearbox inside, so it will be logical to follow what David did, still working on other things before a can make a fit with the SD.
Question for David, if i decide to run them in the wet, are there certain things to do after a wet run, i would think lubricate them with WD 40 and make a dryrun to get the WD 40 all over.
There is not that much room to get a gearbox inside, so it will be logical to follow what David did, still working on other things before a can make a fit with the SD.
Question for David, if i decide to run them in the wet, are there certain things to do after a wet run, i would think lubricate them with WD 40 and make a dryrun to get the WD 40 all over.
Nope. Put 'em away wet and they'll be good for a season. When they go tits up, replace 'em. I got hundreds of 'em. Cheap as dirt too.
Thanks for the tips guys, first i will follow the route David went, if needed i can try plan B, first have to get at the stage of rebuilding the SD for my needs, don't know if there will be enough space left for realising plan B
Finished up the magnetic coupling of the rearpart and done some work on the conningtower,
It should work like this, using the pins as a guide and the magnets to keep it at its place
Removed the copper layer at the backside in preparations for glueing
First part being glued to the rearpart.
Used foil to prefent glueing the rearpart to the hull.
Lined it up with the hull and glued all parts together.
While the glue was drying started to work on the conningtower, made both scopes, navigation scope at the front and the attackscope at the back, and a hohentwiel radar antenna.
Still have to make the splitterscreens and some more antenna's, have to alter the schnorkelhead because it's too big accourding to my drawings.
This is the result of the magnetic coupler, the rear-end is connected to the hull
By pulling it apart you can access the internals of the rearpart, had to make some slits on the hull coupling since the shafts will stay inside the rearpart.
No, i want to do that the old fashion way with some hidden screws underneath the deck, not really a fan of using just magnets to keep the conningtower at his place, a XXI without the conningtower after patrol is not what i'm looking for.
There is not that much room to get a gearbox inside, so it will be logical to follow what David did, still working on other things before a can make a fit with the SD.
Question for David, if i decide to run them in the wet, are there certain things to do after a wet run, i would think lubricate them with WD 40 and make a dryrun to get the WD 40 all over.
Manfred, about 20 years ago I thought it was bonkers, but we got some RC car and truck people involved with tanks, and they always break-in their motors individually inside a glass on water. The main purpose is to wear-in the brushes, which provides a more stable voltage output, and it cuts down on arcing/ sparking which effects radio reception. Dave told me after running his that the motors run much better and this stands to reason.
Manfred, about 20 years ago I thought it was bonkers, but we got some RC car and truck people involved with tanks, and they always break-in their motors individually inside a glass on water. The main purpose is to wear-in the brushes, which provides a more stable voltage output, and it cuts down on arcing/ sparking which effects radio reception. Dave told me after running his that the motors run much better and this stands to reason.
Ah, hence the fact David said they will hold up only one season, the brushes will ground down quicker at the end due to the use in water.
Since i'm free from work i spent some more time on the conningtower, adding extra antenna's and the splitterplates as well a set of resquebouyes, made a start for building the mechanism to retract the bowplanes.
Made the schnorkelhead smaller, looks more like the drawings i have.
Made some provions on the conningtower to make it possible to screw it down on the upperpart with M2 screws.
It took a drill of 0,5 mm to make the holes for the steps, added the splitterplates and some more antenna's, for the detailnuts also made the towinghook at the rear of the conningtower, at this scale you won't see that driving her in the water, but hey!!, i know that is there.
Started a new adventure of making the mechanism to retract the bowplanes, for now i need the lathe to get me the connectionpiece which hold them and move them when extended.
This scale is not helping, if this will turn out as a failure i will follow the KISS way David went, but first a want to try if it's possible.
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