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3D printed 1:48 Type VII C in PLA and Resin

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  • #16
    Originally posted by biggsgolf View Post
    Where did you find the files?
    Thingiverse files that are kinda not very clean. If you zoom in you can see lots of imperfections but I wanted to print it regardless to see if it was worth trying to RC it. My son really wants to make it a display so who knows I figured it's worth a try.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by trout View Post

      I recently purchased some Bob Smith 30 minute epoxy, had maybe 12 minutes of working time. Maybe cool the two parts might extend the working time. Just a heads up.
      I have some but haven't tried it yet I will by Saturday for sure. I also have my eye on Bob's Typhoon files for printing!

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      • #18
        Originally posted by JHapprich View Post
        Is that epoxy long term - stable in water, i.e. is it just like 5-min epoxy?
        I'm not sure. I have considered using West systems but I've spoken to several people who said using Bob Smith Epoxy was fine on my Tugs bow thruster.

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        • #19
          Originally posted by neitosub View Post

          Would be curious to see whether the epoxy-reinforced PLA will warp (or not) under sun exposure. Looking forward to your results!
          Yes I plan to keep her under shade unless operational. I have several scratch made RC planes with all sorts of PLA bits like radial engines and cowls I printed that have sat in the hot West Texas sun for hours with no problem. My Eindekers' cowl is even painted flat black and has no reinforcement at all.
          I have a misprinted bow I plan to test the Epoxy on asap.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by CC Clarke View Post
            I've worked with a lot of adhesives in the aerospace world, and this is one of my all-time favorites for slow-cure, 2-part epoxys. This is lab-grade, clear epoxy, which has a 1/2 hour working time, and cures within 12 hours - faster if you use an oven.

            Hardman makes a five-minute (red label) epoxy, but it can't come close to the (green) label product for low heat generation, high adhesion, and hardness. Excellent stuff.

            Amazon.com: Tools & More Hardman Double Bubble Green Crystal Clear (Clear as Water) Epoxy 100 Packs (#04004) Model: 4004 : Industrial & Scientific
            Wow, you weren't kidding that's a cool product. I might just have to try this as well.
            Thanks, Keith

            Do you know if you can use acetone to thin this epoxy? It makes Bob Smith epoxy very glassy.
            Last edited by Wizzard033; 09-21-2023, 09:50 PM.

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            • #21
              Removing the inner layer went easy about like I thought and I used a stone and slow speed with my Dremel to remove the material behind the scuppers. I got greedy at the bottom and really need a different stone for this area since it's so tight

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              • #22
                PLA will work fine for a practical model, though it's not ideal. ASA or ABS are your best best, though much more problematic to print if you don't get your settings right. Reinforcement via epoxy is a great step, but it's not a bulletproof solution. Epoxy still likes to soften in heat.

                Someone commented about heat distortion from curing epoxy. Criminy... how hot do you think that epoxy gets when it kicks!? Sure.. if you leave a huge puddle of it at the bottom of the hull, you may have an issue, but a decent layup won't generate any appreciable heat whatsoever.

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by RCSubGuy View Post
                  PLA will work fine for a practical model, though it's not ideal. ASA or ABS are your best best, though much more problematic to print if you don't get your settings right. Reinforcement via epoxy is a great step, but it's not a bulletproof solution. Epoxy still likes to soften in heat.

                  Someone commented about heat distortion from curing epoxy. Criminy... how hot do you think that epoxy gets when it kicks!? Sure.. if you leave a huge puddle of it at the bottom of the hull, you may have an issue, but a decent layup won't generate any appreciable heat whatsoever.
                  You can use PETG as a middleman....its more resistand to heat and its prints like normal PLA.
                  Practical wisdom is only to be learned in the school of experience.
                  "Samuel Smiles"

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Originally posted by Wizzard033 View Post

                    Thingiverse files that are kinda not very clean. If you zoom in you can see lots of imperfections but I wanted to print it regardless to see if it was worth trying to RC it. My son really wants to make it a display so who knows I figured it's worth a try.
                    I sometimes import the files to Meshmixer to repair them

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Originally posted by RCSubGuy View Post
                      .

                      Someone commented about heat distortion from curing epoxy. Criminy... how hot do you think that epoxy gets when it kicks!? Sure.. if you leave a huge puddle of it at the bottom of the hull, you may have an issue, but a decent layup won't generate any appreciable heat whatsoever.
                      Was inquiring not implying.

                      a simple "No, the temperature of catalyzing epoxy is to low to cause the PLA to distort" would have been an appropriate answer from the start.
                      Last edited by redboat219; 09-22-2023, 09:23 AM.
                      Make it simple, make strong, make it work!

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by RCSubGuy View Post
                        PLA will work fine for a practical model, though it's not ideal. ASA or ABS are your best best, though much more problematic to print if you don't get your settings right. Reinforcement via epoxy is a great step, but it's not a bulletproof solution. Epoxy still likes to soften in heat.

                        Someone commented about heat distortion from curing epoxy. Criminy... how hot do you think that epoxy gets when it kicks!? Sure.. if you leave a huge puddle of it at the bottom of the hull, you may have an issue, but a decent layup won't generate any appreciable heat whatsoever.
                        I didn't think it would be too hot and I planned to keep the 2oz cloth and epoxy fairly thin. I also have a couple of vans I drive and they will likely sit in the shade most of the time and ride in the AC while underway.
                        I also have Black ABS I was considering also but it smells fowl​

                        Originally posted by bwi 971 View Post

                        You can use PETG as a middleman....its more resistand to heat and its prints like normal PLA.
                        i hadn't considered PTEG I mau need to go ahead and buy some for an attempt​

                        Originally posted by biggsgolf View Post

                        I sometimes import the files to Meshmixer to repair them
                        I want to look into that Seems easy enough to repair and improve this model​


                        I'm so glad people comment here, there's really not much activity in RCGroups anymore. I've been posting about my Harbor Models 'Mister Darby' tug model hoping for some input from the more experienced modelers but I rarely get any feedback.
                        Last edited by Wizzard033; 09-22-2023, 09:40 AM.

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by redboat219 View Post

                          Was inquiring not implying.

                          a simple "No, the temperature of catalyzing epoxy is to low to cause the PLA to distort" would have been an appropriate answer from the start.
                          You got your 'NO' and a supporting commentary on why you got a NO!

                          Take that new knowledge, and for Christ's sake, use it to BUILD something!!!!!!!.......

                          Nothing enlightens the beginner more than actually building something and studying the results.

                          Stop being a polite inquisitor, and start being an accomplisher.

                          David
                          Who is John Galt?

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Originally posted by redboat219 View Post

                            Was inquiring not implying.

                            a simple "No, the temperature of catalyzing epoxy is to low to cause the PLA to distort" would have been an appropriate answer from the start.
                            Apologies if my reply got your shorts in a knot. I don't feel that I was attacking you in any way. To be honest, if you feel that my reply was not appropriate, you're going to struggle with the vast majority of commentary here on the forums...

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by RCSubGuy View Post
                              you're going to struggle with the vast majority of commentary here on the forums...
                              That is an outrageous statement....think you hurt the feelings of all of us.....you tartar you.
                              Practical wisdom is only to be learned in the school of experience.
                              "Samuel Smiles"

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Originally posted by bwi 971 View Post

                                That is an outrageous statement....think you hurt the feelings of all of us.....you tartar you.
                                There, there, Bart. We all share your pain. Those damned Canadian's again!... nothing but trouble.
                                Who is John Galt?

                                Comment

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