1/48 scale Type VIIC U-201 build

[Monahan Steam Models]

Started to experiment with the tabs on the bow sections.



Used .040” X .4375” styrene strips cut to one inch lengths for the staggered tabs.





The parts snap together and keep everything looking good.

[Monahan Steam Models]

Your model will not present too much of a variance in alignment between upper and lower hull, so a simple set of opposed tabs will work for you on that well engineered and produced 1/48 Type-7 kit. Follow what I did with the FOXTROT and you're golden. The capture-lips are only employed with a bad miss-match between hull halves.


David

Okay understood, thank you very much!

Really nice work on your FOXTROT. Clean fit, finish and detail.

As far as the Arkmodel type VII goes. The horizontal cuts to the parts went very well. There are only two small areas where the cut line briefly deviates from being straight but the kerf thickness removed from the cuts are a consistent width on all parts so they all fit back on top of one another very well.

The lower hull section at mid ships along the saddle tanks has spread outboard about a quarter of an inch total compared to the upper half. Other than that, the bow and stern sections haven’t moved much.

Just thinking out loud, when it comes time to add the staggered tabs to the upper and lower halves, it would be very easy to do so now while all these sections are still all loose and not glued together. Haven’t stared at it long enough since completing the cuts to know one way or another if it would make a difference adding the tabs now or after the parts are bonded together. Clearly time for a second cup of coffee this morning…

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

David,

In your experience using the tabs like you’ve shown, do you prefer the style you used on the 1/72 FOXTROT or the style you used on the type XXIII? I completely agree that the tab system you demonstrate is the best way to keep everything with the two halves aligned and registered. I’m just wanting to learn more about the different tab designs you used for your builds.

Thanks!

Nick

Your model will not present too much of a variance in alignment between upper and lower hull, so a simple set of opposed tabs will work for you on that well engineered and produced 1/48 Type-7 kit. Follow what I did with the FOXTROT and you're golden. The capture-lips are only employed with a bad miss-match between hull halves.



David

[Monahan Steam Models]

David,

In your experience using the tabs like you’ve shown, do you prefer the style you used on the 1/72 FOXTROT or the style you used on the type XXIII? I completely agree that the tab system you demonstrate is the best way to keep everything with the two halves aligned and registered. I’m just wanting to learn more about the different tab designs you used for your builds.

Thanks!

Nick

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I would suggest the inclusion of indexing tabs on the lower and upper hull. You stagger them between the two hull halves and what you get is a hull half section being prevented from bowing inboard while next to it is another indexing tab on the other hull half keeping it from bowing inboard. The result is perfect registration of the longitudinally running edges of the two hull pieces. This 1/72 FOXTROT illustrates the indexing tab scheme I favor. Very much the arrangement I would use on the waterline-split 1/48 Type-7.





And applied to the Bronco 1/35 Type-23 kit.





And to a 1/72 THRESHER. Note the inclusion of 'capture lips' to supplement registration by pressing outboard on the opposed indexing tab -- needed for hulls that otherwise would be wildly out of registration.



David

[goshawk823]

Wow. Something I hadn’t considered while building my Arkmodel. I like the idea of not having to deal with removal of that last section to try and access everything as well. I’m interested to see how you’re going to tab the hull and upper deck to keep alignment across the entire boat. I’ve been worrying about all the bits that could fall off while wrestling with the limited access, too.

[Monahan Steam Models]

Nice job. Encouraging method!

Thanks Ken!

The type XXIII should be much easier to split the hull using this method than it was on the type VII due to the saddle tanks and thickness of the hull. The type XXIII has a much more streamline hull which will make laying out the cut line and scribed lines very pleasant to work with.

[Ken_NJ]

Nice job. Encouraging method!

[Monahan Steam Models]

Thanks Steve! I’m very happy with the way the splitting of the hull has gone.

Check out all that access now!



By far the single best modification that I could’ve done to this build.

Nick

[SubDude]

Very clean Nick! Can't beat that...

[Monahan Steam Models]

One more of the total six hull sections cut today.



A bit longer and more tedious cut but still went really well overall. The careful scraping along the initial scribed line with a tool like David shared earlier establishes a very nice groove for the razor saw to follow.



Stern section parts fit back together. Overall I’m very happy with this method and feel comfortable using it to make the dreaded horizontal cut. I did experience the saw, scraper and x-acto blade walk off course during each of the cuts made in these three hull sections today, but the error was quickly noticed and corrected by following cuts. The minor blemishes from those errors were reduced by going slow and correcting when needed. The repair to the minor blemishes will be easily be fixed later with a a small amount of filler and a bit of light sanding.

[Monahan Steam Models]

Other side of the bow section cut now too.





And fit back together. The parting line almost disappears completely

[Monahan Steam Models]

That Zona blade-tip will get it done. Lookin good, pal!

David

Thanks bud! It’s just what I had available on hand but yes the scraping is the way to go. I will definitely be making one like you have demonstrated.


Here’s the newly separated pieces.



And how they fit back together after the cut. Not bad for a first go at doing this. Taking your time from laying out the pencil line to making the first very light scribed line following the pencil mark, and each additional pass pays off. Things don’t happen quickly and get out of hand even quicker. You have time and a chance to correct course with this method is what I am seeing.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

That Zona blade-tip will get it done. Lookin good, pal!

David

[Monahan Steam Models]

David,

Very cool. I will definitely need to make one of those scrapers. Have plenty of dead #11 blades sitting around.



I’ve been using one of these Zona saw blades as a scraper after the scribed line was established enough to begin scraping.



I used the red handled x-acto knife to get the initial scribed line a bit more established. Taking the time to establish and maintain as perfectly a line as possible from the start is key to the following steps. Lots of lightly pressured slow repetitive scribing with the a-acto blades to establish a good initial line wins the war. If the blade wonders off course during the scribing but the initial scribed line was true, switch directions and lightly pull the blade back the opposite direction a few times to correct the groove.



Once the scraping with the tool that David has shown or the Zona blades I am using currently establish the cut groove more so, you can keep going with that method or switch to a razor saw again not being in a rush and making sure the blade only travels in the groove. Here is where I’m at today with the first hull section. Already seeing daylight in sections of the cut and almost finished with this part. Nice thin kerf (.010”) straight parting line.

Now that I said that, I’m sure I’ll “F” up the next part!