Announcement

Collapse

Forum rules and expectations

Hello, and welcome to the forums at the Nautilus Drydocks, formerly Sub-driver.com!

We welcome anyone with a passion for submarines and a desire to learn and share knowledge about this fascinating hobby. Use of these forums indicates your intention to abide by our code of conduct:


1. No spam. All automated messages, advertisements, and links to competitor websites will be deleted immediately.

2. Please post in relevant sub-forums only. Messages posted in the wrong topic area will be removed and placed in the correct sub-forum by moderators.

3. Respect other users. No flaming or abusing fellow forum members. Users who continue to post inflammatory, abusive comments will be deleted from the forum after or without a warning.

4. No threats or harassment of other users will be tolerated. Any instance of threatening or harassing behavior is grounds for deletion from the forums.

5. No profanity or pornography is allowed. Posts containing adult material will be deleted.

6. No re-posting of copyrighted materials or other illegal content is allowed. Any posts containing illegal content or copyrighted materials will be deleted.
See more
See less

1/48 scale Type VIIC U-201 build

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    Originally posted by Ken_NJ View Post
    Nice job. Encouraging method!
    Thanks Ken!

    The type XXIII should be much easier to split the hull using this method than it was on the type VII due to the saddle tanks and thickness of the hull. The type XXIII has a much more streamline hull which will make laying out the cut line and scribed lines very pleasant to work with.

    Comment


    • #17
      Wow. Something I hadn’t considered while building my Arkmodel. I like the idea of not having to deal with removal of that last section to try and access everything as well. I’m interested to see how you’re going to tab the hull and upper deck to keep alignment across the entire boat. I’ve been worrying about all the bits that could fall off while wrestling with the limited access, too.

      Comment


      • #18
        I would suggest the inclusion of indexing tabs on the lower and upper hull. You stagger them between the two hull halves and what you get is a hull half section being prevented from bowing inboard while next to it is another indexing tab on the other hull half keeping it from bowing inboard. The result is perfect registration of the longitudinally running edges of the two hull pieces. This 1/72 FOXTROT illustrates the indexing tab scheme I favor. Very much the arrangement I would use on the waterline-split 1/48 Type-7.

        Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN0119.JPG
Views:	85
Size:	90.3 KB
ID:	156212
        Click image for larger version

Name:	023 (8).JPG
Views:	84
Size:	86.2 KB
ID:	156211


        And applied to the Bronco 1/35 Type-23 kit.

        Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF4528.JPG
Views:	81
Size:	48.3 KB
ID:	156209
        Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF4740.JPG
Views:	78
Size:	56.9 KB
ID:	156208
        Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF4901.JPG
Views:	89
Size:	51.2 KB
ID:	156207

        And to a 1/72 THRESHER. Note the inclusion of 'capture lips' to supplement registration by pressing outboard on the opposed indexing tab -- needed for hulls that otherwise would be wildly out of registration.

        Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF9215.JPG
Views:	78
Size:	51.2 KB
ID:	156210

        David
        Resident Luddite

        Comment


        • #19
          David,

          In your experience using the tabs like you’ve shown, do you prefer the style you used on the 1/72 FOXTROT or the style you used on the type XXIII? I completely agree that the tab system you demonstrate is the best way to keep everything with the two halves aligned and registered. I’m just wanting to learn more about the different tab designs you used for your builds.

          Thanks!

          Nick

          Comment


          • #20
            Originally posted by Monahan Steam Models View Post
            David,

            In your experience using the tabs like you’ve shown, do you prefer the style you used on the 1/72 FOXTROT or the style you used on the type XXIII? I completely agree that the tab system you demonstrate is the best way to keep everything with the two halves aligned and registered. I’m just wanting to learn more about the different tab designs you used for your builds.

            Thanks!

            Nick
            Your model will not present too much of a variance in alignment between upper and lower hull, so a simple set of opposed tabs will work for you on that well engineered and produced 1/48 Type-7 kit. Follow what I did with the FOXTROT and you're golden. The capture-lips are only employed with a bad miss-match between hull halves.

            Click image for larger version

Name:	001.JPG
Views:	85
Size:	94.1 KB
ID:	156219Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN0020.JPG
Views:	74
Size:	76.4 KB
ID:	156220Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN0024.JPG
Views:	76
Size:	68.0 KB
ID:	156221Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN0114.JPG
Views:	76
Size:	86.5 KB
ID:	156222Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN0123.JPG
Views:	76
Size:	75.5 KB
ID:	156223

            David
            Resident Luddite

            Comment


            • #21
              Originally posted by He Who Shall Not Be Named View Post

              Your model will not present too much of a variance in alignment between upper and lower hull, so a simple set of opposed tabs will work for you on that well engineered and produced 1/48 Type-7 kit. Follow what I did with the FOXTROT and you're golden. The capture-lips are only employed with a bad miss-match between hull halves.


              David
              Okay understood, thank you very much!

              Really nice work on your FOXTROT. Clean fit, finish and detail.

              As far as the Arkmodel type VII goes. The horizontal cuts to the parts went very well. There are only two small areas where the cut line briefly deviates from being straight but the kerf thickness removed from the cuts are a consistent width on all parts so they all fit back on top of one another very well.

              The lower hull section at mid ships along the saddle tanks has spread outboard about a quarter of an inch total compared to the upper half. Other than that, the bow and stern sections haven’t moved much.

              Just thinking out loud, when it comes time to add the staggered tabs to the upper and lower halves, it would be very easy to do so now while all these sections are still all loose and not glued together. Haven’t stared at it long enough since completing the cuts to know one way or another if it would make a difference adding the tabs now or after the parts are bonded together. Clearly time for a second cup of coffee this morning…

              Comment


              • #22
                Started to experiment with the tabs on the bow sections.

                Click image for larger version

Name:	CB000173-084F-47D6-A160-710BA5E19AB4.jpeg
Views:	71
Size:	59.1 KB
ID:	156234

                Used .040” X .4375” styrene strips cut to one inch lengths for the staggered tabs.

                Click image for larger version

Name:	8806502B-911E-406F-A674-AEF865A7A5E7.jpeg
Views:	63
Size:	71.3 KB
ID:	156236

                Click image for larger version

Name:	622276CF-11CC-4577-8168-D720F62E1DA2.jpeg
Views:	65
Size:	68.7 KB
ID:	156235

                The parts snap together and keep everything looking good.


                Comment


                • #23
                  Bingo!.......
                  Resident Luddite

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Originally posted by He Who Shall Not Be Named View Post
                    Bingo!.......
                    I like the staggered tab system. Works very well!

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Originally posted by goshawk823 View Post
                      Wow. Something I hadn’t considered while building my Arkmodel. I like the idea of not having to deal with removal of that last section to try and access everything as well. I’m interested to see how you’re going to tab the hull and upper deck to keep alignment across the entire boat. I’ve been worrying about all the bits that could fall off while wrestling with the limited access, too.
                      Removing the last section works well but like you I was also concerned about knocking all the bits off the boat. I had a few other access concerns and final assembled finish preferences too which led to the horizontal cut decision. This build will feature all four forward torpedo tubes being functional and hopefully the single aft tube as well. The necessary connections to the WTC for the launch tubes was considered and designed for last year prior to the horizontal cut. The new hull parting line just makes this a lot easier.

                      After assembling and disassembling the hull multiple times as designed, it became clear the parts would eventually suffer a beating over time. Above that, the multiple parts all fitting together to form a final assembly meant there are a lot joints that would be showing both on the hull as well as the deck. I much rather prefer permanently bond these multiple components together to reduce the amount of parting joints to allow for a cleaner looking, much stronger and easier to deal with final result. I plan to add a photo etched deck and other P.E. bits to the build and it seems splitting the hull this way has way has more Pro’s than Con’s for what I would like to achieve.

                      Also the limber hole shape and sizing as well as the rivets on this model are way wrong. I may or may not end up correcting those too. I am a bit of a rivet counter but not just in a spectator sort of way. I’ll put my money where my mouth is and fix it. Once I see it, I can’t un-see it and it will bother me until it’s corrected.

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Originally posted by Monahan Steam Models View Post

                        Removing the last section works well but like you I was also concerned about knocking all the bits off the boat. I had a few other access concerns and final assembled finish preferences too which led to the horizontal cut decision. This build will feature all four forward torpedo tubes being functional and hopefully the single aft tube as well. The necessary connections to the WTC for the launch tubes was considered and designed for last year prior to the horizontal cut. The new hull parting line just makes this a lot easier.

                        After assembling and disassembling the hull multiple times as designed, it became clear the parts would eventually suffer a beating over time. Above that, the multiple parts all fitting together to form a final assembly meant there are a lot joints that would be showing both on the hull as well as the deck. I much rather prefer permanently bond these multiple components together to reduce the amount of parting joints to allow for a cleaner looking, much stronger and easier to deal with final result. I plan to add a photo etched deck and other P.E. bits to the build and it seems splitting the hull this way has way has more Pro’s than Con’s for what I would like to achieve.

                        Also the limber hole shape and sizing as well as the rivets on this model are way wrong. I may or may not end up correcting those too. I am a bit of a rivet counter but not just in a spectator sort of way. I’ll put my money where my mouth is and fix it. Once I see it, I can’t un-see it and it will bother me until it’s corrected.
                        Just don't let the rivet counting keep you from finishing the project. It is good to see you back at it Nick.

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Originally posted by RCJetDude View Post

                          Just don't let the rivet counting keep you from finishing the project. It is good to see you back at it Nick.
                          Thanks Steve! It has been good to be back at it the last few days! Needed a bit of a break from this project after the intense development phase of the torpedoes, launchers and WTC for this project. Finally deciding on splitting the hull horizontally has given me a renewed sense of interest in picking back up on this build.

                          Click image for larger version

Name:	11E5B48F-255D-440A-AD67-C1222790D0B6.jpeg
Views:	57
Size:	65.5 KB
ID:	156258

                          Spent the day making the multiple above waterline sections all one solid bonded piece. It definitely feels a lot more robust now. A lot of time was taken test fitting the parts together and removing flash from the casting process to get everything to play nice together and lay flat. Will start adding more staggered tabs to the upper and lower hull halves next.

                          Sam,

                          Where are you at on your build presently? I know you’ve probably had to deal with some of the same fits I’ve been fighting too, but have you committed to bonding any of the hull sections together? I’m still exploring the horizontal split and tabbing with my build but wondering if you might be able to still do it on your build as well. That being said I will most likely bond the aft two lower hull sections together as there is just too much going on there to not. Same goes for the center section as it is less important to separate now with the easier access. The bow lower sections I may only bond one side to the center section and leave the other to be removed due to all the torpedo junk. Curious on your thoughts.



                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Would doing the longitudinal cut to the 1/72 Type VII be a good idea?
                            Make it simple, make strong, make it work!

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Originally posted by redboat219 View Post
                              Would doing the longitudinal cut to the 1/72 Type VII be a good idea?
                              Not sure. I have two of the Revell 1/72 Type VII’s I picked up more than a decade ago but haven’t touched them. David would know best if it was a good idea or not.

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Originally posted by Monahan Steam Models View Post

                                Not sure. I have two of the Revell 1/72 Type VII’s I picked up more than a decade ago but haven’t touched them. David would know best if it was a good idea or not.
                                Bad idea. Do it this way:

                                Click image for larger version

Name:	037.JPG
Views:	48
Size:	52.7 KB
ID:	156269Click image for larger version

Name:	035.JPG
Views:	37
Size:	57.4 KB
ID:	156270Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN0191.JPG
Views:	37
Size:	49.9 KB
ID:	156271

                                David
                                Resident Luddite

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X