Can i ask the diameter of the thrust tubes on the 1/72 scale, what dia props are you looking to use?
Regards,
Gregory
The next sub on the printer - 1/72 Typhoon
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Thanks for that, I think the towed array runs through them as well.
Regards,
GregoryLeave a comment:
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From the real Typhoon class submarine, the section at the stern plane is all the way to the middle of the boat. This part is also the most likely to overlook.
You can see it where I marked it with a red pen( the pic below), and you can also compare it to the top view of the real Typhoon submarine.
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That I do not know. I am not very up on the subtleties of different versions of the Typhoon if there are any. Would be interesting to know though.Hey thanks for the reply. I think the bottom one in the previous thread is the early base version for your printed one.
I think this one is the Engel version.
This is obviously full size.
The boxes drawn around the rear from the nozzles to the hull are different on the first image of the printed version.
Are there different rear versions?
Doing some CAD work on a hull and just to get more info.
Regards,
GregoryLeave a comment:
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Hey thanks for the reply. I think the bottom one in the previous thread is the early base version for your printed one.
I think this one is the Engel version.
This is obviously full size.
The boxes drawn around the rear from the nozzles to the hull are different on the first image of the printed version.
Are there different rear versions?
Doing some CAD work on a hull and just to get more info.
Regards,
GregoryLeave a comment:
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Is there a difference on the rear end of the typhoon, where the propeller thrust tube blends into the hull?
The lower picture shows a pronounced groove?
Regards,
GregoryLeave a comment:
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At 1/72 on the Typhoon about 7-8mm. The flanges on the Thresher at 1/48 are 5mm thick. Width wise about 20mm on the Typhoon at 1/72. On the Thresher at 1/48 they are 18mm wide.
Bob has been saying the same thing about the flanges. I try and design my models so they can be printed without support. I can start designing them in, what would be the ideal width and thickness on a typical 1/72 or 1/94 scale model for the flange in your opinion? I have private messaged you about the Typhoon, we can figure something out.Leave a comment:
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I haven't yet figured out how to do that with someone else's files and the appearance of the parts did not indicate a need to.Leave a comment:
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Bob has been saying the same thing about the flanges. I try and design my models so they can be printed without support. I can start designing them in, what would be the ideal width and thickness on a typical 1/72 or 1/94 scale model for the flange in your opinion? I have private messaged you about the Typhoon, we can figure something out.
Thanks Randy. I just may need some help. After having printed the THRESHER with its flange I personally would choose for the Tyhpoon to be like it. They would just be straight. I could print them separate and add them like I did on my Columbia but the hull would be stronger if they were part of it. Is that a possibility?Leave a comment:
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I have found sometimes you need to merge the mesh's in your digital model before moving to your slicer. That way it sees it as one solid piece.Leave a comment:
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I have had numerous files where in S3D I could not print them but the person who created the files used a different slicer and printer and the parts printed fine for them. Kinda like creating an App that doesn't work on all devices or operating systems. I think it is part of the learning process which would require additional time proofing a set of files out on different platforms prior to a release.Leave a comment:
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Interesting issues you are having, hence my earlier question regarding scaling. I do more machine path work and have always found stl files having strange outcomes.
Regards,
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I am also getting some odd printing on some of the bow plane parts...the big brackets are printing in two pieces and they appear as one in the slicer...
And the pivot arms will end up with a pocket under one of the blocks.
Again, not things I can't overcome. I wish I knew how to fix stuff like this on my own.Leave a comment:
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Thanks Randy. I just may need some help. After having printed the THRESHER with its flange I personally would choose for the Tyhpoon to be like it. They would just be straight. I could print them separate and add them like I did on my Columbia but the hull would be stronger if they were part of it. Is that a possibility?Leave a comment:
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