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3D PLA Printing

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  • 3D PLA Printing

    Do those of you who print in PLA anneal the prints? Do you rescale and use an oven, or place in bag and then in hot water or another way, or not at all?

  • #2
    I do none of those things! I do not understand what you are trying to achieve! PLA does not like any kind of heat!

    Rob
    "Firemen can stand the heat"

    Comment


    • #3
      Annealing PLA is done by some people to further strengthen the PLA. From what I see it is not easy, using an oven preheated to 158 degrees F or water are examples. Very precise procedures which lend to possible shrink and stretching, thus my question since I would rather not do any annealing procedure if letting the prints cure on their own is good enough.

      Comment


      • #4
        Rob, I also only run in my pool for now as I learn. What scale and which boats do you run? Can I ask your pool dimensions? I am always looking for boats that will run in my pool which is 14x33’

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        • #5
          If I have a temperature sensitive application I don't use PLA. PETG prints almost the same as PLA and is much more temperature stable. Otherwise ASA or ABS is the best option.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by biggsgolf View Post
            Rob, I also only run in my pool for now as I learn. What scale and which boats do you run? Can I ask your pool dimensions? I am always looking for boats that will run in my pool which is 14x33’
            Bruce,

            Our pool is roughly the same size as yours and oval in shape! I currently have 6 boats that I can run! 4 of those boats are 3D Printed. The Astute, the Redoutable, and the HL Hunley! These are the boats from Nautilus Drydocks 3D Files!

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            I also have the 1:72 scale Skipjack, 1:72 scale Abacore, and the Thunder Tiger Neptune! I also have four new boats in the works! 1:72 scale Disney Nautilus, The Russian Borei (3D printed) The German Type XXl, (3D printed) and last but not least the 3D printed Captain America Hydra Sub! All my 3D printed boats are from Nautilus Drydocks! That's my current water bound fleet right now!

            I custom built my own WTC for all my 3D printed boats! The Nautilus and the Skipjack use custom built MSD that I purchased from Nautilus Drydocks!

            I have to mention that the HL Hunley boat has a SD that was given to me by David Merriman III!

            As you can see, I love this hobby!!


            Rob
            "Firemen can stand the heat"

            Comment


            • #7
              Hi Rob, hope all is good! How do you prefer to remove the PLA layers on the surface? Sand, filler primer, sand? Thanks in advance!

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by biggsgolf View Post
                Hi Rob, hope all is good! How do you prefer to remove the PLA layers on the surface? Sand, filler primer, sand? Thanks in advance!
                I do a light sanding to begin with. And then a FILLER primer with sanding after that. One more coat of regular (wet sanding) primer, that will clean it up, and then onto the finish coats!

                Rob
                "Firemen can stand the heat"

                Comment


                • #9
                  Thanks Rob!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I am using a DREMEL DIGILAB 3D40 Printer! My question is: Are any of you using the Dremel line of printers (specifically 3D40) and are you using the DREMEL PLA filament or are you using one of the other brands that are available I prefer to USA manufacture only for PLA, But i just found out Dremel PLA is being manufactured in China!

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                    With that being said, does anyone have a good QUALITY PLA (made in the USA) they might recommend for the DREME 3D40 Printer?

                    Rob
                    "Firemen can stand the heat"
                    Last edited by rwtdiver; 04-08-2022, 07:26 PM.

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                    • #11
                      Rob,

                      I have two Dremel 3D45s. You can run other print filament, but you need to hack the unit by leaving a roll of filament in it and drilling an access hole in the side of the printer case to feed the new filament through. The Dremel filament uses RFID to identify the spool. No RFID, no filament detected and it won't fire up for you.

                      Not sure about a non-Chinese filament supplier. Seems like it all comes from there...


                      Bob

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by SubHuman View Post
                        Rob,

                        I have two Dremel 3D45s. You can run other print filament, but you need to hack the unit by leaving a roll of filament in it and drilling an access hole in the side of the printer case to feed the new filament through. The Dremel filament uses RFID to identify the spool. No RFID, no filament detected and it won't fire up for you.

                        Not sure about a non-Chinese filament supplier. Seems like it all comes from there...


                        Bob
                        Thank you Bob for chiming in!

                        Your correct about the RFID! There are a few USA PLA manufactures out there, I will just have to do some research on that and decide if I want to hack the machine to get it to work. Thanks again Bob, I appreciate the information..

                        Rob
                        "Firemen can stand the heat"

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Something that I just came across on "HACKADAY"

                          https://hackaday.com/2022/05/10/3d-p...glazing-putty/

                          Another possible finishing process for smoothing out the prints!?

                          Rob
                          "Firemen can stand the heat"

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            A proper two part urethane filler primer does the same thing and saves the mixing goopy part of thinning out the glazing putty.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by SubHuman View Post
                              A proper two part urethane filler primer does the same thing and saves the mixing goopy part of thinning out the glazing putty.
                              Hi Bob,

                              What your are saying is how I do my sanding and finishing work prior to the final color coats. Can't beat rattle cans! Your right about the mess trying to thin glazing putty for an air brush! The idea came across "HACKADAY" and I thought I would post it up as just another way to do things!

                              Rob
                              "Firemen can stand the heat"

                              Comment

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