U-91035 "PROTEUS" Build Log 2020-02-02: PROPULSION

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • QuarterMaster
    Rear Admiral
    • Sep 2015
    • 1194

    U-91035 "PROTEUS" Build Log 2020-02-02: PROPULSION

    Though I still prefer ABS for my "working" components, I do use PLA for jigs, tools and Casting plugs.

    I made up this "nozzle alignment" jig for PROTEUS.
    Keep the Parallelism true among themselves and the center axis of PROTEUS.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20200202_113955.jpg
Views:	262
Size:	75.9 KB
ID:	136451

    For security reasons, you can see the armed minions keeping a close watch, after all we fear "the other side" will sabotage the boat even before it's future tragedy.

    The round one near the propel tank I call "HWMNBN".

    I did reprint, rebuild, the motor mounts. I did it this time in black so I won't have to paint them. They are designed to allow easy removal of the home-brewed brushless motor jet drive units for maintenance, repair or replacement.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20200202_123204.jpg
Views:	173
Size:	85.3 KB
ID:	136452

    Here I am test fitting the installation. Again, the PROPULSION units will be removable, even after the upper hull half is glassed in. "Robust design, easy access for maintenance.", is my motto!

    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20200202_123453.jpg
Views:	168
Size:	73.6 KB
ID:	136453


    Now that most issues have been resolved, the build process should accelerate. (Famous last words)

    Something I want to share regarding the printing..........

    I ended up purchasing a 2nd nozzle for the printer. One is strictly for ABS, and one for the PLA.
    This way I don't have to clean them when I swap filament as the Monoprice VOXEL (a re-branded FLASHFORGE ADVENTURER 3). They're real easy to change, and they're only $23 ea. I unknowingly destroyed my first nozzle by cleaning it too harshly.

    I did notice the increased bed heat degrades the Build-Tak used on the build plate!
    100°c for ABS vs 50°c for PLA. I don't need to tell you for ABS that's the boiling point of water at sea level!

    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20200202_113244.jpg
Views:	129
Size:	46.5 KB
ID:	136454

    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20200202_113251.jpg
Views:	118
Size:	57.7 KB
ID:	136455

    I do replace them more often, the crack and bubble lasting about 20 prints.

    That bubble formed on a 2nd print and I couldn't calibrate the nozzle after switching to PLA for the Jig print.

    Here is the bed after BOTH PLA jig prints. Not even a shadow from the two!

    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20200202_113322.jpg
Views:	121
Size:	51.7 KB
ID:	136456



    Again, I'm not saying WHICH material is better, that's up to you. I will always say it depends upon the (1) application and (2) personal preference.

    This is just information to be aware.

    FWIW, the next printer I look for will probable be the one most recommended for ABS printing.
    Save this for PLA projects.

    v/r "Sub" Ed

    Silent Service "Cold War" Veteran (The good years!)
    NEVER underestimate the power of a Sailor who served aboard a submarine.
    USS ULYSSES S GRANT-USS SHARK-USS NAUTILUS-USS KEY WEST-USS BLUEBACK-USS PATRICK HENRY-K432-U25-SSRN SEAVIEW-PROTEUS-NAUTILUS
Working...