Next mold dilema.

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  • 598602G
    replied
    Sucks because most of wood decks, resin and pe parts are for VII's. For the deck on my IX think I will just custom do it in like basswod or teak. I have a Revell 1/72 type IX kit for reference, Thought about making hull molds for the 1/72 IX and make hulls out of glass but you didn't hear that from me.

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  • trout
    replied
    I need to send my deck outline in to a guy in Germany, but working on a etched deck for that very same sub. Doing the long sail version.

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by 598602G
    Dave I will try to get the weights you need today. Do you know any vendors that sell like resin parts or PE parts for the 1/48 type IX? I can hardly find squat for the IX. Lots of resin and PE stuff for a 1/48 type VII.
    When you can, Tim. No rush. I don't have any Type-9 sources for you -- maybe those looking over our shoulder will provide you those resources. I would imagine a lot of commonality between Type-7 and Type-9 fittings, guns, and deck gear. I think Verlinden had some stuff at that scale -- don't even know if they are still in business or not.

    David

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  • 598602G
    replied
    Dave I will try to get the weights you need today. Do you know any vendors that sell like resin parts or PE parts for the 1/48 type IX? I can hardly find squat for the IX. Lots of resin and PE stuff for a 1/48 type VII.

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by 598602G
    Not cheap just never had a need for a scale as I deal with premeasured fluids like for the epoxy resin. Or I have measuring cups. Anyway pic of the hull with a tape. Think by the time I install side rails to hold deck a 3.5" would be better but you make the call.
    Yeah. We want plenty of annular space between SD and the inside of the hull for floatation foam. So, we'll go with the new thin-wall 3" Lexan for the ballast tank and 2.5 Lexan for the forward and after dry spaces.

    Get me the weight on the deck and sail and we're off!

    It'll look something like this:









    David

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  • 598602G
    replied
    Not cheap just never had a need for a scale as I deal with premeasured fluids like for the epoxy resin. Or I have measuring cups. Anyway pic of the hull with a tape. Think by the time I install side rails to hold deck a 3.5" would be better but you make the call.

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by 598602G
    Dave I got a fiberglass deck with the boat. I will to go to post office and have them weigh the and the wintergarden sail that I am going to use and send you the weight
    Perfect, Tim. God damit, man! Go to harbor freight, plunk fifteen-bucks on the counter and get one of those little digital scales. You cheap-skate, you!

    You give me that number and I'll to the magic here. Will a 3.75" diameter ballast tank fit in there and still not project above water in surfaced trim?

    David

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  • 598602G
    replied
    Dave I got a fiberglass deck with the boat. I will to go to post office and have them weigh the and the wintergarden sail that I am going to use and send you the weight

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by 598602G
    I just filled the hull with water and it holds 3 gallons of water
    That gives us total displacement of a completely sealed up hull (plus the weight of the hull itself, which has a density of one). Not what I want. We want the displacement of just the above waterline portions of the hull. That includes the sail, masts, and gun(s).

    OK. Do this: weigh the deck and sail (GRP has a specific gravity close to one so there's a direct correlation of GRP weight to water weight) and give me that number. I'll multiply that number by 2.5 to account for the sides of the superstructure down to the limber holes, which is where the waterline is on the Type-7. That will give me the size of your ballast tank plus a healthy fudge-factor.

    So, get me that number and I'll take it from there, Tim.

    David

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  • 598602G
    replied
    I just filled the hull with water and it holds 3 gallons of water

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  • 598602G
    replied
    Sounds good to me. That U-boat is one heavy hull. I never made my hulls that heavy. So if I poured water in the hull and measured like how many gallons of water it takes to fill it up would that be OK?

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by 598602G
    I am going to make split molds for the Yankee. Front and rears sections like i did the Delta III and IV molds. Easier to make the molds and easier to layup the hulls. Once I get the first hulls done I will just send you a complete boat. I was thinking I need a SD for my old SSY 1/48 type IX U-boat. I sent pics of it to Lee way back and he said it was one of his older boats before his gypsy crackhead glass layers. Have first layer on half the hull and 2 layers on the sail
    Tim,

    Any idea of the floodable volume needed in the ballast tank for that 1/48 Type-9 of yours? Give me that number and I'll put your SD together right away.

    OK, you send me that YANKEE hull and I'll chop off its stern and do my magic, the end result will be a hollow cast resin cone with attached vertical and horizontal stabilizers and stern tubes with encapsulated propeller shaft bushings. At that time I'll complete the sail planes and other control surfaces, propellers and other detail items. From all that I produce tools. Once I have my copies in hand I'll forward you all the tooling so you can get that kit into production. Sound good?

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  • 598602G
    replied
    I am going to make split molds for the Yankee. Front and rears sections like i did the Delta III and IV molds. Easier to make the molds and easier to layup the hulls. Once I get the first hulls done I will just send you a complete boat. I was thinking I need a SD for my old SSY 1/48 type IX U-boat. I sent pics of it to Lee way back and he said it was one of his older boats before his gypsy crackhead glass layers. Have first layer on half the hull and 2 layers on the sail

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by 598602G
    Dave we got the best drawings from Boris for the Yankee hands down. Boris lives in Severodvinsk, That is the City where the Russian submarine shipyard is. He has like a pipeline to get accurate drawings. Dave you think you can make a twin screw SD with those 1/72 drawings? It's a big boat huh?
    No sweat, Tim. Try this SubDriver on for size!









    When you are done with your hull master, chop off the stern and send it to me so I can outfit it with stern tubes, and the horizontal and vertical stabilizers, like I mentioned previously.

    David

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  • JHapprich
    replied
    Now ill stop messing up your thread

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