A Skipjack in Ireland No.2

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Excellent. Send me your mailing address. dmeriman@aol.com

David

Did you get the stuff?

David

[The Boattrainman]

Work on the tower continues, I removed the entire bottom section of plastic.....



...............and two large slots on the hull top.........




.......this give access through the upper hull into the tower, I'm gluing the tower to the hull on this one.




The diving planes on the tower are activated by my usual twin tiller arms glued together with a long extension arm, each dive plane has 3mm rod that slots into each tiller, and the second slot in the hull is so my allen key extension will reach the grub screws.




The lighting (3mm LEDs) are attached............




...............I added an off white/orange in the triangular window at the conning tower rear for the hell of it.





The Boattrainman

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Hi David,

No dude, just starting out on the Skippy, that's all the progress to date. Alternating between this and the Type XXXIII, any rear parts available would be helpful, especially those yokes, reallly tight space in there my usual 3mm brass and plastic cranks don't fit.

Thanks.

Rob

Excellent. Send me your mailing address. dmeriman@aol.com

David

[The Boattrainman]

Hi David,

No dude, just starting out on the Skippy, that's all the progress to date. Alternating between this and the Type XXXIII, any rear parts available would be helpful, especially those yokes, reallly tight space in there my usual 3mm brass and plastic cranks don't fit.

Thanks.

Rob

[The Boattrainman]

Hi Tom,

The locking bolt pulls the hull downward at that point and works fine, but then the side bulge outwards a bit.

It's weird, if you look at the top pic, it looks like the top and bottom hulls are two different shades of grey plastic.

I tried heating with a powerful hair dryer inside the hull, but it was making the warp worse!!!!

I can work with shims of styrene and lots of sanding, but I don't think this one will be perfectly round unless I can de-warp the middle hull.

Rob

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Too late to get you those, stern control surface yokes?

David

[trout]

Rob,
Could you make your pin face up and hook that under the front lip? That would pull it down and lock it in place. (aside from the obvious of trying to heat it and bend the parts)
Peace,
tom

[The Boattrainman]

This is how much warping I'm having to sort, suggestions welcome!




Rob

[The Boattrainman]

Here we go again!!!

I'm having another go at converting the Revell 1/72 Skipjack to R/C, it's just too good a model when completed to be without.





Z - cut complete, on my usual oak effect stand.


Lots of problems with this hull, it had seriously warped in the box (left in sunlight?). Plenty of filling and alignment strips were needed to get it aligned and still more to do.




I'm adding details I didn't do last time...........the mast light on the tower, a bit over scale.




It matches the tail light on the upper rudder.




I've a few bits left over from the last build, enough to scratch the gratings on the lower hull.




My good friend David sent me a package all the way from the USA to Ireland, including this cracking prop..................





........ here it is polished and ready to go.


As I've standardised on 2mm brass bolts into collared nuts, here's the attachment point.





All I'm short of is the yokes to hold the rudders and dive planes and I'm set to go.

The Boattrainman