I found a suitable fitting from my spares box, I think it's from the Robbe U-47 that I turned into U-557, but it was a perfect fit for the space inside the tower.......
........I drilled it through and added a magnet on top.................
......the corresponding magnet is stuck on the bottom of the snort valve, so easy to take off if required.
Ok, off to do a bit of priming and sanding out the blemishes.
The Boattrainman
A Skipjack in Ireland No.2
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I've standardised on using these 12V Planet automotive connectors, they say they are waterproof and come with a small rubber bung that goes around the wire and into he back of the plug/socket.
But I thought they leaked a bit last time, so I've filled the inlet ports with epoxy to set hard (I wonder does anyone else do this?).
The WTC tie down to the hull is as simple as possible, at the aft end the water inlet (blue) spigot is slotted into a fitting........
rip
.........and at the forward end, a single screw with a knurled nut for grip goes through a plastic fitting into a captive nut embedded in the cap, the fitting can be wound in/out on a short threaded rod to get it a perfect fit.
Simple!
The Boattrainman
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Hi my friend.
Spot on, ones a back up, I was going to modify the battery holder under the ESCs and Receiver to take a 5000mah similar to my first build, but to be honest, the 5000mah never ran out of juice on a decent run.
So, I'll go with a 3000mah and see how long I get, 30/40 mins is plenty for me, and I'll bring the second if I want another run.
RobLeave a comment:
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Well done and clean install. 2 3000MAH batteries? Are you putting both in or one is a backup?Leave a comment:
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I asked Ron to give me an extra two inches on the WTC, as I found things got really pinched at the battery end on the Type 23.
It has made a huge difference to the trailing wiring for at the forward end, lots of extra room.
And for once, no glitches, no twitchy servos, no bugs, it worked first time, just waiting for 2 X 3000MAH Lipos from Hobbyking (hopefully not delayed due to the thing!!!)
The Boattrainman
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The one area I never get bored sorting is wiring the WTC components.
I made a custom mount to hold the fuse holder, I think a 10amp fuse might be enough for this sub.
So aft to bow here is the finished wiring........
.........I could just squeeze another servo in the mounting plate for a switch to turn on/off the lights, the Engel pitch controller just fitted on the other side.
The fuse holder uses the mounts for the ballast tank pump (it's just a cheap 12V windscreen washer unit)........
..............I've tried to keep power on the port side and servo leads on the starboard, but they are mixed going down the centre of the tank......
.......that's the receiver aerial wrapped around the tank, there's just enough space within the WTC to squeeze this in.
Receiver and two Mtroniks 15 TIO (Lipo safe) ESCs, again tried to keep the wiring as separate as possible.
And finally, the forward end cap with connectors for the tower planes and navigation lights (one is a plug the other a socket so I don't mix them up).
I detest messy wiring, all custom cut, crimped and held down with cable ties.
The Boattrainman
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It looks like we all may have plenty of time for our hobbies in the coming weeks, can any group of people be more prepared for a bit of self-isolation than model makers. Throw in a bit of Solitaire Wargaming with my model railway and I can't complain about what we are being asked to do!
So on with my new Skipjack.
I'm custom making a linkage for the Fairwater Planes, using a standard crank and a plastic mount. I've mounted it on a scale paper drawing of the upper hull......
...............the connection to the WTC at the forward end in the lower hull is three magnets, as I'm unlikely to get the alignment spot on.
The Boattrainman
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So after that hiatus to work on my other modelling projects, the Skipjack No. 2 is re-started.
To pick up where I left off, here are the bulkheads, made to suit an R and R WTC which is on order from Ron Perrott.
Also finished is the tower with some scopes, I want something high and visible, plus I drilled out the snorkel and the base of the tower to let the air out.
Another reason I gave this sucker a rest is it had some warping issues, so leaving it with a load of elastic bands to tighten the hull together for a few months in an attic with constant hold/cold cycles seems to have cured the hull shape.Last edited by The Boattrainman; 03-10-2020, 03:43 PM.Leave a comment:
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I finished the linkages at the rear.
The wiring for the top rudder light comes down the crank and up out of the way of the prop shaft..........
.............which is once again a 4mm brass rod with 2.5mm dogbone to go in Dave's fitting on the prop shaft, I had ordered a 4mm stainless shaft and cardan coupling but forgot there's no room down there.
Thanks to Dave's generosity, it was a doddle to sort.
The rear is now all sorted.................
..................... on to the bulkheads next.
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Yes, deffo, the brass ones are smaller and I don't think it's a major problem if it's a small bit out, not like a model airplane prop.
Anyway, I've taken off as much as I dare and it certainly doesn't wobble anymore when spun by hand.
Will fill the void with epoxy and sand over.
Rob
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Should be OK; unless you're planning to water ski behind that boat.Leave a comment:
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So some goodies arrived from good old USA, many thanks to David, what a guy. These will make a huge difference to the build.
I've been balancing the props on my surface skimmers as I got this balancer recently..............
......the brass props only needed a tiny piece removed from the rear of the boss to get them right, however...............
...............I've had to take a massive chunk out of the Skipjack prop, and while it's a lot better, it's still outa whack.
Getting so I don't want to take any more off, don't want to damage it or compromise the shape.
The Boattrainman
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