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3d Disney nautilus

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  • #31
    Pfrozen has several 8k printers; some are re-named 4k printers upgraded with 8k arrays. (8k printers offer thinner layers -30 vs 50 microns over 4k printers.)

    Their largest, the Mega 8k, (great candidate for multiple, complete hull sections) runs about $2k. (It's all about the size of the build plate and lift distance, and sizing the resulting print volume to your needs.) The Mega 8k wait times for delivery can stretch into months, but their frequent flash sales and the upcoming Black Friday sale should offer some discounts for any locally stocked units. My Mighty 4k has performed flawlessly. Any bad prints were due to my inexperience. The learning never ends.

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    • #32
      I ended up getting the Anycubic Photon M3 Max which has one of the largest build surfaces and 7K resolution. I am printing a few pieces on my Ender 5 plus until I get the resin printer up and running. Thanks again for your input.

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      • #33
        Looking forward to reading your impressions of the new printer. Resin printing delivers a detailed product and new resins are coming out regularly. My only suggestion for a new (or any) resin printer is install a clear shield over the array to prevent damage if the fep should ever get a pinhole puncture.

        Above all, have fun!

        CC

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        • #34
          CC

          Through all your experience into Resin Printers, do they have any that use a really safe, non-toxic resin? Something that could be used in the home without harmful vapors or chemicals!

          Thanks for sharing any information you can give. This question is for anyone who might have any information!

          Rob
          "Firemen can stand the heat"

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          • #35
            Rob,

            Not speaking for CCs experience, but in mine there are no safe resins. There is a plant based version that claims to be environmentally safe, however the resultant parts are very brittle. The water washable have a lower oder, but do not take water washable as safe. You still need the proper PPE to work.with them. Standard resin and ABS like are very odiffourous(?), and the fact that you need a solvent to clean up after it speaks volumes to their nastiness.

            Each type has its pluses and minuses. I use the water washable myself.

            Setup a proper workspace, provide good ventilation, use gloves and respirators.

            Tim

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            • #36
              CC- The AnyCubic does in fact come with a clear shield so your point is well taken. If the packing is any indication of the quality of the printer, than I believe I made a good purchase. It arrived in a steel frame wrapped around close cell Styrofoam. Never seen anything like it. I am waiting on the wash/curer machine before moving forward. As a side note, I did try to print one of the Nautilus files from CGTrader on my Ender 5 plus and had disastrous results. I was using tree supports and the finished part revealed that the supports were not only fused together as one solid mass but they were fused to the part itself. Did you print any of these files on a PLA printer with supports? If so, what settings did you use? Anyway, onward and upward.

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              • #37
                Originally posted by SubICman View Post
                Rob,

                Not speaking for CCs experience, but in mine there are no safe resins. There is a plant based version that claims to be environmentally safe, however the resultant parts are very brittle. The water washable have a lower oder, but do not take water washable as safe. You still need the proper PPE to work.with them. Standard resin and ABS like are very odiffourous(?), and the fact that you need a solvent to clean up after it speaks volumes to their nastiness.

                Each type has its pluses and minuses. I use the water washable myself.

                Setup a proper workspace, provide good ventilation, use gloves and respirators.

                Tim
                Tim,

                Thank you for posting that information. Sounds like Resin printing will not be a part of my world until they can come up with materials that are somewhat friendlier. I do appreciate your very informative information!

                Rob

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                • #38
                  Quite a price premium for resin printers above 2k resolution- is it worth it, especially for the type of subject we're likely to model?

                  Mindful of this vid-
                   
                  Time to DIVE IN! https://www.facebook.com/groups/133360626703083/

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                  • #39
                    I don't think the resin is that toxic, or certainly no worse than a myriad of other stuff we use in model building. I believe eventually consumer grade equipment will replicate the polyjet type machines where the resin is laid down where required then cured, rather than a part emerging semi cured from a vat of goo. I think the patents are still active on that tech for a few more years though.
                    Last edited by Subculture; 12-01-2022, 04:51 PM.
                    Time to DIVE IN! https://www.facebook.com/groups/133360626703083/

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                    • #40
                      Originally posted by rwtdiver
                      Just my thought on Resin printing!

                      Until they come up with a more user-friendly resin with the printer, and where you don't need to wear a hazmat suit and self-contained breathing apparatus to produce a product, this is sure not for me at this point! I am sure that someday this may happen, I think there are a lot of people that are into resin printing wish there was a much safer product!

                      Rob
                      Rob,


                      The resin isn't at all even remotely as bad as other chemicals we use like cyanoacrelate glues and solvents. The alcohol for cleanup is pretty inert, and you can get water-soluble resins as well. I don't experience any overt fumes during printing with any resins I've used.

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                      • #41
                        Here are the MSDS sheets for Elegoo water washable and standard. They are skin irritants and environmentally toxic to aquatic life. Recommended PPE is glove and gogges.
                        Attached Files
                        Last edited by SubICman; 12-03-2022, 05:25 PM.

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                        • #42
                          @Groot689:

                          The CGTrader SSN-571 Nautilus is ripe for RC adaptation, but requires a resin printer to take advantage of the high detail built into the model. That being said, printing 2mm thick hull sections it while keeping it dimensionally accurate took me a few failures before I started getting consistent results. I'm using ABS-like matte grey resin over standard 4k Grey. It flexes a little more, but can be brittle around corners on the hulls.

                          First, I model in a ribbed support structure in all of the hull sections. This not only gives the model more rigidity while printing but once cured, make the parts stronger.

                          Slicing orientation needs to be a minimum of 45 degrees. This still leaves a large raft, but can that can be changed by increasing the tilt; I'll go as high as 60 degrees before the ribs start needing too much support. Anyway, manually attaching heavy supports to my rib junctions works well, and I throw a lot of supports at the corners and leading edges of the hull sections. Using lattice support structures intertwined in hexoganal patterns (on the Z axis) gives dependably rigid supports.

                          Once cured, everything lines up good and tight. For flat pieces, I cure them using a lab glass block. It keeps the parts from warping during curing and allows light to pass through. For larger parts, I place it on the turntable and it cures the lower edges and refracts light into the interior of single-piece hull sections.

                          As for PPE, I print in a well-ventilated area that is thermally stable. Resin is a skin irritant, so I wear gloves anytime I handle uncured parts or work with liquid resin. When sanding hull joints and raising dust, goggles and a respirator are highly recommended. I wet-sand whenever I can.

                          While a different Nautilus, the techniques are adaptable.

                          CC
                          Attached Files

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                          • #43
                            CC,

                            I have the same USS Nautilus files. I want to get through the Disney Nautilus first. BTW the parts came out okay, just been really distracted from my hobby with family matters.

                            Tim

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                            • #44
                              I print my resin hull parts straight up and down. Prints very good with Elegoo ABS like grey resin.

                              Click image for larger version

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