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1/120 Akula

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  • #61
    Very Nicely done. I'm impressed! In the future you should consider using a 2 part automotive paint which over has far superior abrasion resistance than model paint. I followed David's advice from the beginning and never looked back on this decision. Of course that your decision to make. I had some made up back in 2010 and am still able use it!


    • #62
      Originally posted by mloo123 View Post
      To the paint shop today. Using Tamiya Hull Red and Flat Black.

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      Painting masts...

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      Secondly, I probably have addressed the main engine compartment leaks problem. As expected, the gland nut moved anitclockwise when the drive shaft is turning in same direction. Will apply some locktite and hoped no more leaking occurs doing further tests.

      That is one nice looking boat! Your flat finish and color scheme looks great! Well done in my opinion!

      "Firemen can stand the heat"


      • #63
        Thanks for the comments guys!


        • #64
          Saw this modular system in YouTube. Looks cool as you can have ballast situated for the right balance.


          • #65
            And I just got done rearranging the components in my Columbia to move the batteries central to the hull and closer to the motor so the water tight box went forward where the batteries were. Also upgraded the bow and stern thrusters so it is ready to be re-trimmed and then it will be good to go for the season.


            • #66
              Very cool mate. Very nice piece of engineering!


              • #67
                Wow! What 3D printer did you use to create this? I am assuming you printed the hull?


                • #68

                  When installing silicone tubing through the end cap of the WTC, what adhesive or sealer is the best to prevent leakage? Is Permatex a good sealant or is 100% clear silicone better?

                  "Firemen can stand the heat"


                  • #69
                    Brass tube through the endcap sealed with RTV siliccone. You then slip the silicone tube over the brass tube and lock it inplace using zipties.
                    Make it simple, make strong, make it work!


                    • #70
                      Originally posted by redboat219 View Post
                      Brass tube through the endcap sealed with RTV siliccone. You then slip the silicone tube over the brass tube and lock it inplace using zipties.
                      Thanks for the input, Romel!

                      I just scanned through several of David M. "Todays Work" blog, and I saw pages and pages of him using "Loctite Clear Silicone" I also recall on one of our Dive Tribe get togethers, he said 100% silicone was the best!

                      "Firemen can stand the heat"